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“This Cali-Itali addition to West Hollywood’s already food-heavy Melrose Ave is not the place to order the branzino (though we’re sure it’s excellent—everything here is). When you’re at chi Spacca, you’re here for the meat. Chef Ryan DeNicola is the expert cleaver behind the counter at the latest addition to Nancy Silverton’s killer roster, which includes La Brea Bakery and Osteria Mozza (the latter also with longtime restaurant partners Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich). For starters, we dive in meat-first with the affettati misti—a daily selection of cured meats that includes a jarred side of pork butter. The assortment changes every so often, but if you’re there when they’re serving the goat salumi you’re in luck. Get a side of olives and chèvre to round it out. Don’t forget the focaccia di recco, the bread Silverstone’s known for. For those who’d rather ease into a meal, the kale and rucola salad with apples and walnuts and the little gem lettuce with a bacon vinaigrette are beautifully done and likely the only greens you’ll see all night. If it’s your first time (and you can afford the gut-punching bill) order the bistecca fiorentina. It’s a 50 oz, $220 dry-age angus porterhouse that arrives garnish free, dripping with olive oil, and oozing its natural jus. Keep in mind, it’s intended to serve a party of four…and even then you may have a doggie bag or two. The spice-rubbed “Moorish” lamb shoulder chop with a mint yogurt sauce is also great; so is the Tomahawk pork chop (a wild round of ribs). Finally, though we can’t imagine you’ll have room for dessert, the heavily liquored tiramisu makes for a pretty sweet sendoff. —L.G.”


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